Weekend in Mexico City

My coworker, Abril, invited me to go with her to Mexico City on Sat., Nov. 17 for a birthday party of one of her friends. At this point, I didn´t know Abril very well, so I was hesitant to go because I knew I would feel awkward, and I´d have to stretch myself to be extra social in my not-so-native language. But, after this initial uncertainty, I kicked myself, and decided to go – if nothing else to get to know Abril better. Abril is writing her thesis for a doctorate in Anthropology, and is one of the smartest, most interesting people that I have ever met. It turns out she also has some of the most interesting friends, too.

Sat. afternoon, we took the Pullman (bus line) to Mexico City. Our plan was to first go to her frien, Arturo´s, house for a barbeque, and then to go to a bar later that night to meet the birthday boy and have a party. So we got to Arturo´s apartment, and, as is customary here, bellowed as loud as we could in front of the open window with the hopes that someone would hear us and come let us in. Well, as I looked up at the open window to bellow, I saw smoke pouring out of one of the rooms. I looked over and Abril saw it too, but she was smiling and it didn´t seem to bother her in the least. So when I explained to her that I thought the building was on fire, she started cracking up. Turns out people barbeque INDOORS here – who knew?! So we got upstairs and Abril recounted the story to her friends, and immediately I was a big hit as the adorable, unknowing gringa (American) – not usually my favorite role, but at least it was an ice breaker.

Those at the apartment were Arturo, Arturo´s dad in from Chihuahua, Abril´s anthropology friend Javier, and his girlfriend. It turns out that everyone there was very involved in politics and social rights movements, which made for amazing conversation. Arturo´s dad was in for a huge protest taking place the next morning in the town square. The protest was held in response to the fraudulent election of the current president, Felípe Calderón, in 2006. Calderón ran against Andrés Manuel López Obrador, and won by a very slim margin, even by using extensive tactics of voter fraud (his brother-in-law designed the software to count the votes, whole communities´ votes weren´t counted, voter bribery, etc.). Not that López ran a squeaky clean campaign, but he was certainly the people´s choice, and far less militant towards Indigenous communities. So after Calderón was announced the winner of the election, López staged a huge protest in the town square (100s of thousands of people – truly incredible) to demand a recount of every single vote (and there is no doubt that he would have won had this happened). Long story short, they recounted 9% of the votes, and still declared Calderón the winner, despite all the evidence against him. So…back to my story, Arturo´s dad was going to the second annual protest of the political and electoral fraud in Mexico. Javier was also going. He is a Zapatista – or a sympathizer of indigenous peoples of Mexico who have started the Zapatista social/political/economic/philosophical justice movement to fight for the rights of all indigenous peoples around the world. Again, very interesting company.

So our pre-dinner and dinner conversation revolved around Mexican politics and the Zapatistas. I helped cook the best way I know how, which was by staying out of the way. We had guacamole with pomegranate, barbequed beef (no barbeque sauce, but oh so juicy!! – sorry to all of you vegetarians), and of course, tortillas. After we had stuffed ourselves, we left for the birthday party.

The party was in a bar owned by a man who only opens to bar for private parties for his friends. The guests bring the booze, and he works the bar. The bar owner was from Cuba so the whole place was decorated with Cuba paraphernalia - pictures of Che Guevara, the Cuban flag, cigar advertisements, etc. And he served mojitos, which originated in Cuba. The birthday boy, Intzy (I think that´s how you spell it) is Mexican, but he is dating a Cuban girl, Wilma. Apparently names like Wilma, Wilmer, Wilber, Elda, Elmer, etc. are very popular right now in Cuba. Well we all talked for awhile, and then Abril, Wilma, two other girls, and I played billiards. We were awful, but we had a great time!! Every time anyone got a ball in the hole, everyone screamed and jumped up and down and hugged that person. It was like everyone wins! After that it was dance time, and with several Cubans in the house, I decided to watch for awhile, because even Mexicans admit that Cubans put them to shame on the dance floor. However, soon the Cubans began to help out us less coordinated folk, and I actually got pretty good! This one married couple started showing me a bunch of steps and then they would dance together so I could see what it looked like, and then I danced with the guy to put it all together – it was certainly engaged learning! At about 4:00 in the morning, we called it quits, and Abril and I went back to stay in Abril´s sister´s apartment.

Abril and I had every intention of getting up to go to the fraud protest, but it started at 10, and we would have had to get up by at least 7:00 to get there at little early for a decent spot. And I got sick in the morning, and stayed sick for an hour or two. So instead, Abril, her sister, Rosa, and I stayed in our pjs and watched TV until Abril´s brother got back with some breakfast supplies (Abril´s brother lives in the same apartment complex as her sister). I didn´t eat, and within a couple hours, I had cleansed my system. There´s no better way to get to know someone than to get sick in their home, so by the end of my time with Abril´s family, we were thick as thieves.

Eventually, I felt good enough to walk around, so Abril and I went to a suburb of Mexico City to an anthropological museum that exhibits only indigenous pieces – art work made by Aztec descendents, tools used by the people to make tortillas and to harvest, ceremonial clothing, etc. There was also a live exhibit of traditional Mexican dancing, as well as a special exhibit showing different pueblo´s traditions for celebrating El Dia de los Muertos. It was absolutely fascinating! Afterwards, we walked through the artisans´ street market and then grabbed a quick bite to eat at Sanbourns (a department store/restaurant that helped make owner, Carlos Slim, the richest man in the world –yes he has beaten Bill Gates…for now). Then we left for Cuernavaca, tired, but very content. All in all, it had not been too awkward, and I had really really enjoyed myself! I was soooo glad I went!